{"id":3695,"date":"2013-07-05T11:22:47","date_gmt":"2013-07-05T15:22:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/?page_id=3695"},"modified":"2025-11-10T17:00:13","modified_gmt":"2025-11-10T22:00:13","slug":"easy-top-down-raglan","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/?page_id=3695","title":{"rendered":"Easy Top-down Raglan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/cosmicpluto\/27389371\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm1.staticflickr.com\/21\/27389371_bde4c91387.jpg\" alt=\"Noro Cardigan\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">\nWhether it\u2019s your first sweater or you\u2019ve made many, top-down raglan sweaters are an easy, fully customizable, and fun to make! Best of all, there\u2019s no sewing!\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Notes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>This sweater is knit in one piece from the top down. This means you cast on at the neck, increase for the shoulders, then knit the body down to the hip (or wherever you want to stop) and the sleeves down to the cuff. This pattern is written as a CARDIGAN.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The sizing of the sweater is super easy to customize \u2013 just keep increasing in the yoke until it fits over your shoulders. I\u2019ve included sizing guidelines, but keep in mind that you can control the size.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The yarn and needles you can use are endless! If using something at a vastly different gauge, make a swatch and determine the number of stitches to cast on using your neck measurement, and go from there (you\u2019ll understand how to do it after your first one, I promise).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The smallest size is given first, with following sizes in parentheses. When only one number appears, it applies for all sizes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Sizes<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>\nTo fit bust: 32-34\u201d (36-38\u201d, 40-42\u201d, 44-46\u201d)\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Materials<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Worsted or heavy worsted weight yarn: approximately 700 (800, 900, 1000) yards. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Needles appropriate for yarn: about 5-6 mm (US8-10), 24\u201d circular and a set of double pointed needles Stitch markers Buttons Examples of yarns include Brown Sheep Lamb\u2019s Pride, Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece, Mission Falls wool, Blue Sky Cotton, Manos del Uruguay, Malabrigo, Lorna\u2019s Laces Worsted, Noro Kureyon or Silk Garden. Top photo: Noro Silk Garden Bottom photo: Patons Classic Wool and Manos del Uruguay Classica <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Gauge<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>\n18 stitches\/4\u201d in stockinette stitch\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Abbreviations<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>k: knit <br \/>p: purl <br \/>kf&amp;b: increase by knitting into the front and back of the stitch<br \/>m1: make one increase (lift the bar between the stitches onto the left needle from front to back, then knit this through the back loop) <br \/>pm: place marker <br \/>k2tog: knit two together <br \/>ssk: slip, slip, knit two sts together through back loops <br \/>sl m: slip marker <br \/>RS: right side (the \u201cpublic\u201d side) <br \/>WS: wrong side <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Directions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Neckband<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Cast on 83 (87, 91, 95) stitches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Work 1&#215;1 Ribbing OR Seed stitch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1&#215;1 Ribbing<br \/>Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to end of row, k1. <br \/>Row 2: *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to end of row, p1. <br \/>Repeat these two rows for 1 &#8211; 1.5\u201d. <br \/><br \/>-OR- <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Seed Stitch <br \/>Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to end of row, k1. <br \/>Repeat this row for 1-1.5\u201d. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Yoke<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Next row (RS): k 15 (16, 17, 18), pm, k 12 (12, 12, 12), pm, k29 (31, 33, 35), pm, k 12 (12, 12, 12), pm, k 15(16, 17, 18). <br \/><br \/>Row 2 (WS): k5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5. This sets up the cardigan fronts to be edged in garter stitch (the 5 stitches that are knit at the beginning and end of each row). If you wish, you can work these 5 stitches in ribbing or seed stitch.  <br \/><br \/>Row 3 (RS): *k to 1 st before marker, kf&amp;b, sl m, kf&amp;b*, repeat from * to * three more times. Knit to the end of the round. If you want buttonholes, work Buttonhole row 3: *k to 1 st before marker, kf&amp;b, sl m, kf&amp;b*, repeat from * to * three more times. Knit to last 3 stitches, ssk, yo, k1. <br \/><br \/>Round 4 (WS): k5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5. <br \/><br \/>Repeat rows 3 and 4 21 (24, 27, 31) times TOTAL, working buttonhole row 3 every 2 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>NOW IS THE TIME TO TRY IT ON! Slip the stitches to scrap yarn and try it on. If the two sleeve markers meet under your arm, you\u2019re good. If you need to add a few more increase rounds or take out a few, do so. End with right side facing for next row. <br \/><br \/>Next row (RS): knit to first marker, slip stitches between next two markers onto scrap yarn (these are the sleeve stitches), cast on 2 (3, 4, 5) stitches to the right-hand needle, knit to next marker, slip stitches between marker to scrap yarn, cast on 2, (3, 4, 5) stitches to right-hand needle, knit to end of row. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Body<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Continue working in stockinette stitch, creating buttonholes every two inches, until body is 12 (13, 14, 15)&#8221; from underarm or 2&#8243; short of total desired length. <br \/><br \/>Work k1, p1 ribbing or seed stitch for two inches, then bind off in pattern. <br \/><br \/><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Optional side shaping<\/span> <br \/>Side shaping can make the sweater more flattering and generally uses a little less yarn. To work shaping, place a marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches in the previous row (so for the 32\u201d size, cast on 1, pm, cast on 1 in the underarm). These will be the side markers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Decrease row (RS): Work as established to 3 stitches before side marker, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk. <br \/>Beginning 3\u201d below the underarm, repeat decrease row every 5 rows 4 times. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Try on the sweater as you go; you should be near your natural waist. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Work 1&#8243; even for waist.<br \/>Increase row (RS): Work to 1 stitch before side marker, m1, k1, sl m, k1, m1. <br \/>Repeat increase row every 5 rows 4 times. <br \/>Then continue as above, working even to desired length.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sleeves<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Slip sleeve stitches back onto a 16\u201d circular needle or double pointed needles. Pick up and knit 1 (2, 2, 3) stitches under the arm, place marker, pick up and knit 1 (1, 2, 2) stitches, and join for knitting in the round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit around to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1. <br \/>Repeat the decrease round every 5th row 10 times or to desired narrowness. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Knit straight until sleeve is 2\u201d short of desired length. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Work K1, P1 ribbing (or edging of choice) for 2&#8243; and then bind off in pattern. Repeat for other sleeve. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weave in the ends and you\u2019re done!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Whether it\u2019s your first sweater or you\u2019ve made many, top-down raglan sweaters are an easy, fully customizable, and fun to make! Best of all, there\u2019s no sewing! Notes Sizes To fit bust: 32-34\u201d (36-38\u201d, 40-42\u201d, 44-46\u201d) Materials Worsted or heavy worsted weight yarn: approximately 700 (800, 900, 1000) yards. Needles appropriate for yarn: about 5-6 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":3696,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"wp-custom-template-free-patterns","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-3695","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3695","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3695"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3695\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5616,"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3695\/revisions\/5616"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3696"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.laurachau.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3695"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}