Category: photography

  • Feb 12-15: road trip and wedding

    We decided to go on a bit of a road trip (with a hired driver and Vig’s Uncle K) while we were in Chennai – just go down the coast a bit to Mahabalipuram and Pondicherry and see what they were like. The first stop, just outside Chennai (once you get past the traffic!) was Dakshin Chitra. It’s a pretty contrived but still entertaining “living museum” of arts and crafts and such.

    bazaar at Dakshin Chitra

    They have a bazaar, lots of demonstrations and hands-on stuff, and it was really quite fun. We got there pretty early so it was quiet and fairly cool as well. There were various traditionally furnished houses, displays on cookware and household items, and all kinds of stuff. And they had weaving!

    weaving!

    This guy was weaving sari fabric – super thin threads, all silk, with a fancy pattern woven in as well. Awesome!

    And since yarn is necessary…

    this was an exhibit

    So are swifts!

    I also tried my hand at grinding rice – necessary for such yummies as dosa.

    198.365 - grinding rice the old-fashioned way!

    (Wearing my new Indian-acquired duds.)

    Then it was onwards to Mahabalipuram. Its main claim to fame is numerous (and I mean numerous) carved rock temples and shrines. After checking into the guest house (Siva Guest House – highly recommended, they’re really friendly and the rooms are super clean and appropriately basic) we headed out to see the sights.

    Krishna’s Butterball – I think it one might be naturally occurring rather than carved, but I could be wrong! It’s not held down by anything except gravity, and it is on a slope. I wouldn’t sit in front of it!

    krishna's butterball

    The Shore Temple – pretty at sunset! We got there just in time to get in a look before it closed up for the evening.

    Shore Temple

    A bunch of the sights are all in a row, so you can walk from one end to the other pretty quickly and easily. We got dropped off at the butterball and walked to meet the driver, Xavier, at the lighthouse.

    lighthouse and rocks

    Lots and lots of carved rock. It is pretty interesting, but it started to get a little tedious after awhile. These are the Five Rathas – shrines that were buried until the British dug them up and put them on display.

    Five Rathas

    more rock carvings

    At least there were some highly entertaining goats, climbing on a pretty sheer rock face! It was crazy, this was at least 20 feet off the ground.

    crazy goats

    Mahabalipuram is a tiny place, really just worth a day trip from Chennai, but we stayed overnight so we could drive on to Pondicherry the next day without having to double back. I found Mahabalipuram a little too touristy and kinda trashy – everything building’s either a souvenir shop or a guest house! The monuments were really not kept well, there was a lot of plastic trash everywhere and it was just disgraceful.

    We had slightly higher hopes for Pondicherry (Puducherry), a former French colony a couple more hours south along the coast.

    The signs and pretty buildings remain!

    Rue Dumas

    pondicherry

    pondicherry

    Unfortunately that was kind of it. Not a lot of French charm left, although maybe we just didn’t know where to find it! We walked around a little, just looking at the houses and things, poking in a few shops, being freakily followed by a stray dog (that was scary for a few minutes) and ended up at the beach – which is a rocky shore. It was pretty to look out though.

    rock beach

    Random food notes, since it’s been a theme of my trip: we ended up eating both dinner and breakfast at the hotel, and they had pretty good North and South Indian food. For breakfast, yummy rawa dosa, which is made with wheat flour in addition (I think?) to the usual rice and lentil flours. Mmm. I do miss eating dosai for breakfast these days!

    rawa dosa

    We stayed overnight in Pondicherry and headed back to Chennai in the morning, stopping to take a look at one of the big South Indian temples in town. Might be a little hard to see, but it’s all painted up. And it has to all be repainted every couple years!

    colourful south indian temple

    The next day we got up bright and early to head out to a wedding that one of Vig’s other uncles had invited us to – why turn down an offer like that?! I’d wanted to wear a sari but didn’t have enough time to get a blouse made so I just wore a skirt, top and scarf instead. It worked out well because I think I would’ve been a little uncomfortable in a sari! That’s a lot of fabric to manage.

    indian wedding

    What surprised me the most about the wedding was how much people weren’t paying attention – stuff with the bride and groom goes on for so long, it’s not like people are all that interested in actually watching every little detail of the rituals. People just socialized, walked around, read the newspaper (!) and went and ate in the dining hall whenever.

    dining hall

    There were long tables set up with banana leaf and pre-served with some of the cold stuff, then once you sit down the servers come along with pails of rice and rasam and curry and all sorts of stuff until you say stop – they cook it all fresh there at the hall and even change the menu throughout the day. We had dosa and idlis and things for breakfast when we got there, then rice and rasam and such for lunch a couple hours later!

    After the wedding we got the auto to take us on a little bit of a shopping trip – I love the stainless steel store and bought quite a few tumblers and bowls. It was dirty work sorting out what I wanted though!

    stainless steel store

    Of course, all the copper and stainless steel dishware I bought meant that my luggage was a) fuller and b) wayyy heavier. We spent the rest of the day doing laundry and packing up for a flight the next day to Delhi – and cooler weather!

  • february 8-11: Chennai

    From Kuala Lumpur we caught an evening flight to Chennai (also known as Madras, before the name was officially changed a few years ago) and stayed with Vig’s Uncle K for the week, aside from a mini road trip that’ll be the next post! After three weeks of go-go-go, we were so tired and ready for a break. Being in a home and just hanging out was nice! We took it really easy, ate at home all the time, and just took short excursions out.

    cows in the road

    There are definitely cows everywhere – it was pretty sad to see them trying to eat garbage. There isn’t much grass going on in the city! Along with the cows there were also TONS of stray dogs that would bark and fight at all hours of the night, cats, and chickens.

    night market

    We visited the neighbourhood night vegetable market, to buy veggies for Mamy (Uncle K’s cooking lady) to prepare. Basically she comes over once a day (twice while we were there) to prepare whatever food for the day. It was rather nice not having to really think about where to get food!

    night vegetable market

    We also went and did a little shopping – I’d packed maybe a little *too* light, and really needed some tops and a lighter skirt. I actually ended up buying a wrap skirt from a little shop near the vegetable market, according to them it was 3/4 length but it was certainly full length on me (and I’m not super short)! The skirts are looooong.

    pondy bazaar

    We checked out a few shops in Pondy Bazaar, a shopping street with bazaar-y stalls and little sellers along with larger established shops and things. I did manage to find a good top, so I bought two in different colours – I’m a bit picky, so it took a little doing to find tops I would actually wear (and that would fit).

    On the same shopping day we went to Kumeran Silks, a HUGE, multi level store that mainly sells silk saris along with some other styles of clothes, accessories…and silk material!

    silk store!

    Prices were excellent and I ended up buying quite a lot of different colours and types for presents – and myself, obviously! We also checked out some different price ranges on saris, from $25 to over $1000!

    ooh pretty

    Crazy tidbit about India – oh, the bureaucracy. Buying things in stores takes so many people! There was one guy who cut the fabric, one guy who wrote the amounts down and took it to a counter, the next guy printed up the receipt on the computer, the next guy checked the receipt again, then you pay the next guy, who gives it back to one of the previous guys to stamp, and then finally you give the stamped receipt to the guy who bagged your purchase and you can get your bag and leave! Takes at least 10 minutes to buy anything.

    self-aggrandizing

    (Lots of the crazy politicians hire people to paint self-aggrandizing portraits and things on walls and fences all over the place…it was interesting to see!)

    195.365 - the auto-rickshaw

    Man we took a lot of autorickshaws during out time in India – it really is the best way to get around! They can weave in and out of traffic more easily than a car (too easily maybe) and are really cheap. One that we hired for about six hours took us around whereever, waited while we were in stores and things, for a total of 400 INR or about ten dollars. And although riding around in them was somewhat hair-raising (no safety measures of any sort), at least the breeze was nice!

    Although it was actually cooler in Chennai than it was in Kuala Lumpur, we got much more tired of the heat. The houses are concrete and relatively cool, with lots of fans and such, but the bedroom was upstairs and was way too hot to be comfortable at night. On top of that we had to have the window open, but that meant that it was really LOUD in the mornings! People want to get out and do stuff before it gets too hot, but that’s like 6am. Even earplugs didn’t really cut it, and since our sleep was disturbed it was even more tiring.

    Later in the week we headed out with a hired driver and Uncle K for a 2-day road trip a little ways down the coast!

  • Feb 4-7: Kuala Lumpur

    Kuala Lumpur (KL for short!) was a last-minute addition to our trip itinerary – we were going to go from Beijing to Singapore, then Singapore to India, but couldn’t get a flight we were happy with. So Kuala Lumpur it was! Just a short stop of a couple days, but we did end up seeing a lot.

    lush

    It was darn hot – flying from Beijing to KL was a bit of a temperature shock! It was around freezing in Beijing and 30-35 C in KL, so a bit of a drastic wardrobe change was required. I wasn’t super into staying at the YMCA, but the location was extremely convenient (right by the KL Sentral station, where the airport train and all the intracity public transportation goes). Walking around was tough, because there were very few sidewalks – you’d be walking along and then it suddenly ends and becomes a crazy traffic-y highway! The monorail was decent for getting around.

    street food

    There were lots and lots of various eating establishments – the normal restaurants and food courts, but also street food stalls and even restaurants that were pretty much just on one side of the road! We did the touristy thing one day and went to the KL Bird Park, which was actually pretty entertaining. There was a show with performing parrots and such (and a decently cool enough place to sit!).

    peacock

    From there we walked to the Islamic Arts Museum – it was actually a really short walk, but the lack of good signage and the heat made it feel a lot longer. We had a great lunch at the museum, then walked by the Nation Mosque. Unfortunately when we arrived it had just closed to tourists for a couple of hours.

    closed to non-Muslim tourists

    The next day, already sick of the heat, we took refuge in a couple of the huge malls. KL has one (or more, possibly) of the biggest malls in southeast Asia. The malls are around 8 floors, usually with a couple of food courts and just tons and tons of stores. Of course, they’re pretty popular to hang out in because of the air conditioning! We spent pretty much the entire day going from mall to mall – not the sort of thing I’m usually into, but the heat was really too much. Some of the malls are more flash than others – the Pavilion mall is really super upscale with pretty much all designer stores.

    superhuge malls

    Our flight was in the evening on the 7th, so we stowed away our luggage at the YMCA and ventured out a little further. We met up with a friend of a friend just outside KL, in a suburb that was pretty easily reached via the Rapid Transit system – as an aside, KL has a really random public transportation system that consists of three different private systems that don’t intersect. It’s very strange.

    Anyway, Regina was really awesome and took us to lunch at yet another huge mall, the Curve. We had Hakka food for lunch, then went for Malaysian dessert. I think it was shaved ice with condensed milk or something, and then variations of fruit and flavours. Kind of weird.

    crazy malaysian desserts

    Aside from just the heat, the traffic was pretty nuts and the pollution was quite bad. The vegetation was awesome to look at (super lush!) and it was super easy to find vegetarian food. Mostly it’s the abundance of Indian food that makes it quite simple to find stuff that’s vegetarian! We did eat a couple other Malaysian foods as well – pulled roti, which is sort of like a really stretchy crepe, and pulled tea.

    pulled tea

    It’s black tea with condensed milk – tasty, but it’s a rather deadly combo of sugar and caffeine!

    One last iconic image of KL is the Petronas Twin Towers, which used to be the tallest buildings in the world. You can get a free ticket to go up, but we couldn’t be bothered to get up early and queue for one! Instead we just took photos from the outside and visited the obligatory mall at the bottom.

    Petronas Twin Towers

    Of course, KL was just the start of the hot-weather portion of the trip…and I still hadn’t really done much knitting, either. Up next, my first ever visit to India!