Category: 365

  • Feb 27 – March 4: one last stop!

    It was a LONG flight from Delhi to London – over nine hours. The flight was on Virgin, and despite what I’d heard about it being a nice airline, I didn’t have a great experience. My seatmate was a nice lady who shared my sentiments! There were kids screaming and running up and down the aisles and no one did anything about it – not the parents, not the flight attendants. And my inflight entertainment thing was broken! The headphone jack had been jammed and you couldn’t put the headphones in, so I was left watching stuff on my computer until the battery was low, or sleeping, or doing a little bit of knitting.

    The lunch was okay, but then there was no more drink service or anything until the next snack, which was 4+ hours later! The service was extremely slow – it took forever for them to clear the trays, and when my seatmate was feeling ill and wanted some tea, it took over half an hour for someone to respond to her pressing the call button. And then the flight attendant refused to bring her tea, saying that they’d be coming around in an hour! She finally agreed to bring some hot water instead. Near the end of the flight when I got up to use the bathroom and the lights were on, I looked around a little – I’ve never seen such a messy, dirty flight. There was rubbish all over the floor, at least partially due to the kids knocking stuff over or throwing things on the floor. Oy.

    Anyway, I did arrive at Heathrow relatively unscathed, for a longish layover – it took awhile to get through the terminal transfer and customs and security again, but I still had about three hours to kill before boarding the short flight to Edinburgh. I got a sandwich from Pret – what novelty! Raw vegetables! People who speak English! It was pretty awesome, really. I paid for a bit of internet at a cafe and fought off sleep; because of the time difference it was 8pm in London but I felt like it was 1am!

    ysolda's in there somewhere!

    Another flight and a taxi ride later, I was at Ysolda’s flat in Edinburgh. I was just there in September, and it really felt like I could just drop in anytime. I love Ysolda’s flat (and ysolda’s not too bad herself!). Her studio’s very inspiring, and we had lots of fun just hanging out and chatting (with a little working thrown in).

    214.365 - a famous-y studio!

    Quite the climate change – it was nice and cool, even a little chilly, which suited me just fine. But the sun was out sometimes, and you could definitely feel spring in the air. I didn’t take a lot of photos in Edinburgh, especially since I took lots last time, although I did take quite a few of ysolda’s Ishbel beret for the pattern and book.

    pretty pretty crocuses!

    While ysolda was teaching at k1 on Sunday, I went out for a little bit of a walk on my own. Of course, it was classic Scottish weather and I got caught in a rain shower, then hail (which I hear is NOT usual weather). I popped into the National Museum, which had lots of interesting textile stuff, among other things, and we went out for some food and knitting with some friends after ysolda was done teaching.

    classic Scottish tenement

    It was a little hard to get ourselves out of the flat especially since we’re both homebodies, but we did manage to get to the Botanics for some photo taking and then walking down through Stockbridge and doing some shopping and eating cake.

    more pretty flowers

    We both bought clothes from a shop called Jigsaw.

    215.365 - Jigsaw

    Unfortunately there was an issue with my flight home – it got cancelled! I was supposed to leave Tuesday, fly from Edinburgh to Gatwick, then Gatwick to Toronto. The Gatwick-Toronto flight was cancelled and apparently I could take the Monday flight, but I only found out about two hours before the Monday flight was going to leave from London! Completely impossible to get that flight. So I ended up having to buy another ticket (which was at least not too expensive) that left from Glasgow on Wednesday morning, and ysolda’s very nice dad drove me out to the Glasgow airport about an hour away.

    With the extra day in Edinburgh, we both stayed in and worked a bit, I packed up the bit of stuff that I’d unpacked, and then we went out to the cinema and saw Benjamin Button. Nice way to end off the stay – actually, pretty much exactly like my last day in Delhi, come to think of it!

    And I finally, finally, finished some legwarmers that’d I’d been carrying around for basically the entire trip. I finished the first one in Japan, and got most of the second one done in China, but once we hit the hot weather I didn’t work on them at all! The ultimate in mindless knitting – 4 balls of black Zara (black despite what the photo might have you believe!), 3.75mm needles, and 1×1 ribbing forever. They’re quite long, and nice and cozy.

    black legwarmers

    I finally got back home to Toronto on March 4 in around noon, and I even managed to make it out to knit night that night (for a little while). Being back at home is great, I love my bed and my shower and my cooking, but I can see why people get bitten by the travel bug and just have to go somewhere. The trip was a great experience, and I think I would totally go back to any of the places (maybe not kuala lumpur, I gotta say, it was really hot there!). But for now I’m just happy to be home and ready to get back to some work! I’ve got lots of design ideas and stuff I’m working on now, although I’m finding that I feel a bit restless these days and have a hard time focusing. I’m sure I’ll get back in the groove though.

    Knitting? Yeah, I’ve got lots more knitting to catch you all up on :)

  • Feb 20-22: a trip to Udaipur

    Rajasthan is a state that’s southwest of Delhi – while we were in Chennai we decided to head out from Delhi and visit Udaipur and Jaipur. We really needed to book the trains and decide on hotels, which was all done from Chennai. Unfortunately we were a little late on booking the train from Delhi to Udaipur, and we ended up in sleeper class – not my first choice!

    sleeper class car

    Friday the 20th we spent the day packing up and getting ready for the trip, then left for the train station in an auto around 4:30pm – our train wasn’t until 7pm but Nizamuddin station is quite far from Shalimar Bagh and then there’s the legendary Delhi traffic. Had we left any later, I’m sure we would’ve gotten caught in rush hour, but as it was we got there pretty early, around 5:30.

    sleeper class

    There are three levels of overnight sleeper – 1AC, 2AC, and sleeper (and then there’s second class, which is a pretty nasty free-for-all and just seats). The AC classes are climate-controlled, meaning you can’t open the windows – in sleeper class there’s bars, then a sliding glass pane and a shutter. Since we were travelling through the desert though, open windows = coldness. No bedding is provided in sleeper class, which is three tier…and we were in the upper berths!

    sleeper class upper berth

    It’s really high. And the ladder dealie to climb up was really not great either. Being the upper berth is actually good, because you get more headroom, and more privacy since people aren’t climbing over you to go to the toilet or something. I still wasn’t too into it though. And even though we brought blankets it was cold!

    205.365 - upper berth

    (The shawl is Seraphim by Miriam Felton, the sweater is B-Side. And I look like crap because it was like 11pm and I was on a train!)

    Anyway, we finally got to Udaipur an hour behind schedule at 8am. A driver was waiting for us from the hotel, the Tiger (highly recommended; rooms were really clean and new, the staff was super helpful) – nice guy to wait an hour for the train to arrive! We went straight to the hotel, checked in, and took a nap and shower before heading out to explore. It turns out Udaipur is a pretty small town that’s really easy to explore on foot – it’s hilly, but everything is super close together. It is an extremely tourist-based town, so there are just tons of hotels, restaurants, and various handicraft shops.

    winding, hilly streets

    The lake that the touristy part of town is situated on is low because of crappy monsoons, but it’s still cool to look out over – the Lake Palace (now Hotel) is right in the middle. I think what makes it look so odd is that there’s no land around it, like an island, it’s just plunked right down in the water!

    Lake Palace Hotel

    Octopussy was filmed here and they’ll never forget it – there are nightly viewings at several different hotel/restaurants. We never did get around to seeing it, we were only there 1 night anyway!

    octopussy

    The lakeside-ness of the town really is beautiful.

    lakeside

    We ended up at the City Palace, which has a HUGE museum. Following the route inside, it seemed like it would never end. There were lots of interesting things inside, but after awhile we just wanted to get out and get something to eat! We ended up going to a restaurant owned by the same people as the hotel for lunch, Savage Garden – they had pasta and stuff, and it was kind of nice to eat non-Indian food for a change.

    City Palace -3

    mmmmm

    The City Palace from the other side of the lake – we went to a fancy hotel for a drink and actually ended up going back to the same place the next day for dinner.

    city palace

    Capping off the evening we went to see a dance show which was in the guidebook, and so the audience was entirely composed of foreigners. It was an interesting show, there were women dancing with pots of fire on their heads, a cool marionette guy, and this awesome lady – who started out with one and ended with ten pots on her head!

    whoa

    We only stayed the one night at the Tiger, but we had the whole next day to explore as well – our next train didn’t leave until the evening, so we stowed our luggage at the hotel and went to see the temple and do a little shopping.

    temple carvings

    We ended up at the cafe across from our hotel for a big chunk of the afternoon, chatting with an Irish woman who was leaving India the next day after a two month trip (hi if you’re out there!). It was really nice to just talk with someone who spoke English at the same pace! We went back to the City Palace later in the afternoon to try and catch the last boat ride out on the lake, but we were a little too late. I wasn’t that into the idea of going up to the Monsoon Palace, which is on a hill/mini mountain above the city, but we let an auto driver talk us into it (for an inflated price, we should’ve maybe haggled harder).

    It turned out to be a really lovely excursion. The palace is about 8 km from town, and the roads up the mountain are pretty crazy! An auto-rickshaw doesn’t have a lot of power at the best of times, and climbing? It was a little scary.

    road up to monsoon palace

    There was a lovely view of Udaipur (can you see the Lake Palace Hotel?) and the palace was a really nice place to play with the cameras – we were there just before sunset, magic light hour! The palace itself has been quite neglected, although restoration is underway (a bit, anyway) – it’s really interesting this way though.

    looking down on Udaipur

    monsoon palace

    monsoon palace

    more windows

    We went back to the fancy hotel restaurant (Ambrai) and had a really awesome meal beside the lake before picking up our luggage and heading to the train station.

    Ambrai

    Wow, this has gotten really long! We had a really nice time in Udaipur – it was a little quieter, smaller, and really interesting despite its touristy character. I think I’ll save our next stop for my next post – Jaipur.

    Amber Fort

  • Feb 16-19: Delhi and Agra

    We flew up to Delhi on the 16th by Jet Airways (pretty good – and cheap! at 1500 INR base fare per ticket, or about $25) and were really relieved about the weather. It was actually cool enough to put on a sweater in the evenings! We stayed with Vig’s aunts and uncle in Shalimar Bagh, a neighbourhood in north Delhi. Aunt J took us along to check out another night market, this one was pretty huge and took up an entire street! There were stalls selling clothing and housewares, souvenir-type stuff, and of course produce and food as well.

    street food

    Andrea: the produce being a night market thing is definitely because of the heat during the day, but otherwise? I think people just like to do their shopping at night!

    more veggie stands

    Upon hearing a ruckus outside…we found a groom’s wedding party in full force, taking up the left lane of traffic! The buses weren’t too happy about that, I tell ya.

    left lane, wedding

    After a day of complete rest at home quietly, we were picked up bright and early by a car to go to Agra – by leaving at 6am we managed to get there in about three hours (it’s 200km from Delhi) and avoided a lot of Delhi traffic. First stop was Akbar’s Tomb, and since it was about 9:30 in the morning it was pretty empty. The driver didn’t speak a lot of English, just kind of parked and indicated that we should go and check it out! It was worth a bit of a poke around.

    Akbar's tomb

    The entrance to the tomb was pretty creepy.

    creepy entrance to the tomb

    Pretty creepy inside, too – a big empty room with a marble tomb in the middle.

    Akbar's tomb

    Next up was Agra Fort, where we did have a guide – it’s kind of a convoluted story but basically, the driver was hired through a pretty trusty travel agency. When we got to the fort, he said we should take this dude as our guide – he was hanging out with the travel agency’s bus so we figured he’d already been hired by them. The guide was pretty good, we definitely learned lots more stuff, but awhile later (after taking us to a ‘handicrafts shop’…note that this is a bad sign; and also accompanying us to a restaurant for lunch but not actually coming inside?!) wanted to get paid. Vig asked the driver if we were supposed to pay him, or if he’d been paid by the travel agency – the driver said we didn’t have to pay the guide. But the guide was pretty insistent, so rather than argue we just him paid the equivalent of $4 and sent him on his way. Whew.

    red sandstone

    Anyway, Agra Fort. Big place, lots of red sandstone and white marble, and a pretty awesome view of the Taj.

    view of the Taj from Agra Fort

    Apparently you can tell real white marble from painted stone because light will shine through marble! It was pretty neat.

    real marble

    There was also lots of beautiful inlay work – there was one room in particular that was really pretty. All the coloured bits are precious or semi-precious.

    beautiful inlay

    After some lunch at a restaurant called Only (which was pretty good, but with highly inflated tourist prices) we headed to the Taj Mahal!

    a little bit closer

    We sat around, walked around and took tons of photos. It was getting to be the late afternoon and the light was really good – and it wasn’t very hot either, so it was really pleasant! The Taj is really beautiful, and nothing really captures being there!

    on more of the Taj

    the Taj Mahal!

    The epilogue to our day in Agra? It took five hours to get back to Shalimar Bagh – we left Agra at 5:30 and for some reason the driver went to an auto shop on the side of the highway around 6 and had something done to a spare tire (it was in the trunk?). That took half an hour. Then it was pretty uneventful for awhile until we hit Delhi, then there was the traffic. That wasn’t too much of a big deal on its own (pretty expected really) but the driver was getting sort of increasingly agitated and crazy in his driving. It was scary, yo. Did I mention we got into a collision on the way to Agra? Not the driver’s fault, someone else cut in and our car demolished his driver’s side mirror. No tip for him!

    Anyway. Back in Delhi we set out to explore a bit the next day and took the Metro to Connaught Place. The Delhi metro’s really quite impressive and clean, better than the TTC I’d say at least in terms of looks! They also have displays of when the next train will come, which is always nice. And I really do like elevated rail systems because of the light! Downside? Security’s really tight, even moreso than in Beijing – metal detector and bag search, every time. Actually, security’s really tight a lot of the time India, there’s metal detectors to get into the mall and bag searches and frisking all over the place!

    Connaught Place

    Connaught Place is mainly a shopping centre, built by the British and consisting of a couple of concentric ring roads. We wandered around a bit, bought a Lonely Planet for our Rajasthan trip, and had a fantastic lunch at Veda. Definitely one of the best meals of the trip! They have a veggie tandoori platter that’s really just veggies, pineapple, and paneer, all roasted in the tandoor, as opposed to the usual super cooked, stewed-type curries we’d been eating. It was nice to bite into a recognizable pepper or mushroom!

    veda

    A short walk south and we ended up at a place that was in the guidebook, but seemed pretty low-key – Jantar Mantar observatory. It’s an astronomical observatory that mostly looks like a bunch of crazy sculptures or something! It was really nice and quiet, few tourists, and pretty much a free for all – you could climb anything! We stayed there quite awhile taking fun photos and climbing up and down.

    Jantar Mantar -5

    Jantar Mantar -2

    Jantar Mantar -4

    I thought it was very M.C. Escher!

    We definitely had fun there.

    204.365 - jump!

    Hang tight – just a few more posts left about my trip. A train adventure to Rajasthan, one last sightseeing day in Delhi, and my visit with Ysolda!